It’s not hard to do a good steak; get a good piece of meat, cook it well and serve with decently cooked accompaniments. Rookwood Bar and Cue, a new british BBQ restaurant, appears not to know this. This £22 ribeye was curiously flavourless (despite its supposed Edge and Son provenance), cooked to pink as I requested, but I was expecting more from their fabled Grillworks BBQ. They’ve made a lot of noise about the all-singing-all-dancing artisinal grill, and the dry-aged steaks – but, on this evidence, the results they’re managing to tease out of it are hugely underwhelming.
The sides were truly terrible. Thick doughy onion rings dripping with grease and soggy flavourless chips that had no hint of the supposed beef dripping they were fried in were the lacklustre accompaniment.
All this served with a passive béarnaise that lacked any punch from acid or tarragon. Not a piece of meat worth seeking out. A missed opportunity.
Rookwood Bar and Cue
Back Colquitt Street