Restaurants come, restaurants go. Last year’s hot table is as passe as a creme brulee butane torch. It’s all rather dizzying, and depressing. Gary Manning’s 60 Hope Street has anchored the top of town with a surefooted marriage of crisp modern cooking and relaxed dining for 13 years. Unlucky for some perhaps, but not – on our recent outing – for this handsome townhouse. There’s no linen on the tables these days, but service as sharp as a Victorinox knife set. It’s ‘relaxed formal’ mindset is one that suits the city well. There’s just enough theatre here, without the histrionics. And, more often than not, you leave smiling and sated, feeling your money’s been well spent. We’d not been for a while, and were keen to see whether the dreaded c word: consistency, would be 60 Hope Street’s undoing. Phew. It wasn’t. But, also, it wasn’t especially busy either on the Friday night we headed uptown. Manning’s other outposts, The Quarter and Host both rammed and boisterous. Sometimes less is more, though. And 60 Hope Street’s generously spaced tables, calm and unflustered staff and pared back, reassuringly clipped menu whispered ‘we’re in control here, don’t worry’. At this point, I’m well aware that our review is sounding like an Echo advertorial – I wish I could throw in a few jabs to spice things up. Did the drinks take too long in coming? Alas no. Was the bread bought in and stodgy? Afraid not. It was dipped into the olive oil with ravenous abandon. Oh, I know, I can have a go at the slate. I don’t like slate. You know, when you’re served something on an errant roof tile, because the dishwasher’s broken? I’m not sure about that. But, hey, what was on the slate – delicately gin-cured salmon across the table, and, for me, hand dived scallops with that ozoney-fresh tang of some Hebridean harbour, with sauteed belly pork, more than made up for the obvious draft they’ll have whistling through the cockloft. Mains saw more slate (what are they doing up there? building an extension?) with pink slithers of grassy, juicy Cumbrian lamb arranged like an exploded diagram of the Big Bang. Nascent galaxies of baby leeks, carrot, sweet breads and courgettes radiating outwards, connected by a cosmic string of puree. Lots of lamb, too. No fiddly half portions here. For me, a lone fillet of sea bass, judiciously cooked, complete with crispy, salty skin, and a tumble of new potatoes was, simply, the best thing I’d eaten all year. I was, for a brief moment, violently angry when I’d finished. So I took it out on the side salad. The side salad always gets it. What 60 Hope Street has the confidence to grasp is that the quality of the food is paramount: yes, my friend’s plate looked like a carnival and mine like a canteen supper, but they were equally memorable, and equally given exactly the right treatment. We skipped the Deep fried jam butty (but we do love it), and went for a Raspberry bavarois and Lemon cheesecake with a zippy pink lemonade foam (foam? they’re so cocky they still do foam and get away with it!) and delicious grapefruit ice cream. With a flinty Sancerre (and a couple of cheeky cocktails) the bill came to around £120. It was money well spent. As we say, restaurants come, restaurants go. But on this evidence, 60 Hope Street is staying just where it is. 60 Hope Street Liverpool Posted September 2, 2012 – 7 comments 7 Responses to “Review: 60 Hope Street, Liverpool” ninjah September 2, 2012 Im hungry now… great review 🙂 September 2, 2012 at 1:39 pm Rich September 2, 2012 Great review of a great place, but I must admit I prefer Mr Lloyd’s reviews of places he hates! That’s when he comes into his classic own! September 2, 2012 at 3:49 pm Ian Jackson September 2, 2012 Lovely to read such a positive review 🙂 September 2, 2012 at 5:37 pm David Lloyd September 2, 2012 I told you I’d changed, Ian! September 2, 2012 at 5:53 pm Dan Todd September 11, 2012 Nice review, David. I ate at 60 Hope Street for the very first time a couple of months ago. You’ve just made me want to go back again. September 11, 2012 at 3:39 pm JenKat September 17, 2012 Unfortunately, I recently had my first bad experience at 60 Hope Street – it was the service, not the food. Despite raising my complaint politely with the supervisor, I was still treated in a manner that I can honestly say that I never expected from 60 Hope Street staff. I was disappointed to say the least hopefully someone from the establishment will read this and review the current selection of staff to pick out those letting what is and always has been a restaurant that Liverpool can be proud of. September 17, 2012 at 8:06 pm Homebaked: On the Rise | Sevenstreets December 9, 2012 […] The Homebaked team were featured on BBC1′s The One Show on Friday, and the campaign has already got to nearly £4,000 aiming to reach a target of £13,000 – with support from food critic Jay Rayner (which is more than can be said of his visit to the London Carriage Works.Seems he feels the same about black tiles as plates as we do.) […] December 9, 2012 at 7:41 pm Leave a Reply Click here to cancel reply. You must be logged in to post a comment.